Monday, February 29, 2016

Battery powered quartz, solar powered quartz, manual wind mechanical and self wind mechanical

So far I own four of these type of watches and can fairly give some comments about the good and bad of them.

Firstly, the battery powered quartz, analogue or digital. Well, they are very cheap to produce, so cheap, you can own many of them. Quartz movement, being simpler, are also thinner, making them very suitable as dress watches. Besides, the quartz is a very accurate timekeeping material compared to most entry level mechanicals. For mechanical watches to achieve the same level of thinness and accuracy would be very costly.

The downside is, battery needs to be changed. Some quartz watches that have the combination of digital and analogue indications run on two batteries. And they last for about two years perhaps. It's cheap if you change yourself but cost about RM15 per battery (including labour) if changing them at watch shops. Some Casio watches boast 10 years of battery lifespan but these are normally fully digital watches. You can save some money by changing battery yourself but some digital watches especially G-Shocks are not easy to open up its back case for battery change. Best to leave this to professional.

Another thing about quartz is that its second hand runs on a tick-by-tick movement which is less smooth compared to the sweeping second hand found on mechanicals. I am actually fine with the ticking movement but some people stress too much on this feature somehow. Anyway, there are a few quartz movements that have sweeping second hand but they are very expensive, although wall clocks with sweeping second hand are quite affordable. Some people claim that Seiko produces sweeping second hand quartz but they are actually chronographs where that sweeping hand functions as a stop watch. It still doesn't sweep as smooth as mechanicals actually.

Quartz movement doesn't last as long as mechanicals and will die within 5 to 10 years, depending on the quality. Because of this limited lifespan, quartz movement watches are not suitable as heirloom watch and don't command high resale value compared to mechanicals. Although the movement is cheap and you can simply replace them when it dies, it will loss the originality of the watch. It's like a classic car with a modern engine, it just doesn't feel classic any more.

Solar powered watches like Citizen Ecodrive and Seiko Solar have the same attributes as battery powered quartz, except that its battery last a lot more longer as it is constantly being recharged by the solar power. To get enough solar power, these watches can't be kept inside the drawer all the time. Hence, you may leave them on the table most of the time, causing a mess on the table. As in everything else, rechargeable batteries don't last forever and a replacement battery cost about RM70, the last I heard.

Now come to mechanicals. I believe the above has also covered a fair bit about mechanical watches. The cost to make a quartz is cheaper than mechanicals simply because the mechanical movement has to be assembled by humans, although its components are mass produced these days. One exception is perhaps the Swatch Sistem51 which is claimed to be fully made by robots. Hand assembled movement will always be more expensive than quartz movement which is essentially a mass produced circuit board.

Before further comparing the manual and self winding, I just need to emphasise about a common marketing talk about mechanicals. Although there is no change of battery needed, they are also not cheap to maintain. Mechanicals need to be regulated after some years of usage and especially if you have dropped them. My Seiko 5 Superior is running faster by 5 minutes every week while my wife's Seiko 5 (4206 caliber) is out by 1 hour in every 12 hours! Although you can clearly see the +/- screw from the see thru case back, regulation setting should better be done by expert and this cost money. Apart from regulation, mechanicals need lubrication after some years of usage, as the rotor can be quite noisy and squeaky.

Needless to say, mechanicals can be passed down from generation to generation. Some simple repair and regulation are all they ever needed to get it going.

Between pure manual winding and self winding (some with the option to wind manually like the Swatch's Sistem51), you will often find that pure manual winding are much thinner, making them more elegant and suitable as dress watches. The collection of manual winding watches I have are all less than 10mm of thickness. Unfortunately, I doubt you can still find any pure manual winding watch these days.

Anyway, the thickness is expected as self winding mechanicals need to accommodate for the rotor and this probably increase the thickness by a few mm. Nonetheless, modern watches with good water resistance also contributes to the thickness.

Obviously, manual winding watches need to be winded manually, everyday before wearing them. Self winding mechanical will harness the power from your wrist movement to wind the mechanics. It will normally has sufficient power from wearing the watch for one day to power the watch for another one day without wearing it. Swatch Sistem51 boasts a power reserve of 90 hours but I am interested to some verification from real owner on this claim. Anyway, that watch cost about RM560 which is made of plastic while the same amount of money can get you an Orient Bambino.

So there you have it. All of them with the pros and cons. By the way, as a watch enthusiasts, it's not about having the most expensive watch to brag but wearing the right watch to go with the clothing or activities. It will always look odd wearing an expensive Rolex diver to match with a suit. Quartz watches like Skagen or Obaku will go well in formal business wear compared to thick automatic diver.

Saturday, February 13, 2016

Solvil et Titus watch

My wife was very much into Korean drama lately and very much touched by a scene where the actor gave a nice classic watch to girl. She wanted me to do the same.

So off we went to a watch shop and let her choose what she wanted. She chose this rectangular Solvil et Titus watch at the City Chain shop which cost about RM606. Quite pricey for a quartz watch. Not sure where the quartz movement was made. She is not into mechanical watches as she won't be wearing this watch often and too lazy to set the time.


The back panel is etched with a phrase "tian chang di jiu" which I think it means love is forever.


Closer look at the dial face.




Enicar manual winding watch

There are so many Swiss brands, some are more popular while some, not sure if it is still in the market. One of them is Enicar brand.

This is an old watch given by my dad, an Enicar Ocean Pearl manual winding watch. The watch is so old that the dial face has faded. My dad sprayed a white paint to give this watch a new look but he was not able to put the second hand back. The ticking sound is much lower than the Camel but I haven't tested the accuracy and power reserve. Looks good as my alternate dress watch.

Dimension:
Diameter - 36mm
Lug to lug - 38mm
Lug width - 18mm
Thickness - 8mm




Friday, February 12, 2016

Citizen quartz watch

Some additional close up shots of my old Citizen quartz watch. Currently lying idle, will need to get a SR721SW battery to start moving that 2880 quartz movement. The movement comes with 2 jewels.

I still like this watch cause it's quite thin at 7mm and can easily tuck under the cuff, suitable as dress watch.

Dimension:
Diameter - 30mm
Lug to lug - 37mm
Lug width - 18mm
Thickness - 7mm







 

Camel manual winding watch

This is another gift from my dad, a Camel manual winding watch which claimed to be Swiss made. The movement cannot be hacked. The watch isn't big, about 34mm with a military style dial face. That size is a bit too small for my wrist. Fully wound, the power can last 24 hours at least and can maintain a fairly accurate. Without any winding after 24 hours, I can see that it doesn't keep the time accurately. The ticking sound is quite loud and can be clearly heard in a quiet room.

Being a pure manual winding watch, I suppose this is quite an old watch. Did a simple research and found that this watch was made back in the 40s.

My dad gave it to me without any strap, just for collection only. I have matched it with a black strap I salvaged from somewhere.





 17 jewels.


Shockproof and Swiss made.

My first regulator watch

My dad really has lots of watches in his collection and decided to give me a few to start my collection. This is an Oris regulator watch he bought way back in the 90s.

Although an automatic, this watch is amazingly thin at 9mm. I guess that's the difference between Swiss made and Japanese automatics which mostly around 11mm of thickness.

Dimension:
Diameter - 35mm
Lug to lug - 41mm
Lug width - 19mm
Thickness - 9mm

You can see that it has really aged more than 20 years as the illumination on the hands has worn off.

 
 
The crown and strap buckle are engraved with the Oris word.
 

 
More close up shots on the dial face and back panel.
 
 
Can also regard this watch as my first Swiss made watch.

 
The Oris logo is engraved on the back panel, no see through panel unlike the Seikos.

 
 
The exact model code is 649 7471 45 61 LS 21904. He even gave a book on Oris watches that also briefly described the special features of this watch.